Arctic Memories of the year 2000
2000 overflowed with intense memories and this little album recalls a few (click on images to see larger versions; Netscape may have some problems, but Explorer should work fine). They were taken during MIT/DARPA technical expeditions in Iceland and far northern Norway (February/March). These expeditions tested sensor-networked skis in arctic conditions, but also took the science team through remarkable scenery, weather and culture. A field report with some photos from the Norwegian leg is here.
Iceland: it's the size of Massachusetts, New Hampshire and Vermont combined, population about 275,000 (mostly in Reykjavik). Much of it is rugged wilderness. We went because there was no snow in New England, and because IcelandAir had a fare of $199. Our tests were conducted in a blizzard around Mt. Hekla, just prior to a massive eruption that we barely missed. Surprisingly to some, Iceland isn't that cold. Reykjavik's weather is like Manhattan. It does lie just beneath the arctic circle, but Iceland catches the gulf stream and the whole country is volcanic and geothermally heated.
Norway in late March brought us to the Birkebeiner ski marathon in Lillehammer (58km), followed by hut skiing in Finnmark (map). Karasjok is the capital of the Sami nation (Lapland), so reindeer herding families are often out and about. Our fieldwork took place around Karasjok, 1900 miles north of Boston and about 1400 miles south of the pole: it's one of the northernmost towns in the world.
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Alpenglow
on a remote mountain in Iceland
(southwest of Hekla: see the antique map by Abraham
Ortelius)
Sunrise doesn't look too different. That's the road.
The Media Lab team slogs up Mount Hekla, blasted by a bitter headwind.
Hekla is the largest mountain in Iceland, and has been an active volcano
for thousands of years. In fact, way back in the 1500's, continental Europeans
used to say "Go to Hekla!" as a famous kiss-off. Two days after we left,
Hekla underwent a spectacular eruption
Vista overlooking Icelandic volcanoes, not too far from Lerubakki farm.
Apollo astronauts did their lunar testing on the tephra fields here.
Whoosh! Skijoring with the family reindeer, a Sami man whistles by at
about 50 km/h (on the Karasjok river in Norway, 3600mi NE of Boston)
Phew!
Little nippers at Sven Engholm's husky lodge in Karasjok. Sven has won every
major dogsledding event in the world except one: the Iditarod.
On better behavior, ready for their close-up.
Moose skull at Sven's lodge, waiting for Norwegia O'Keefe.
Brrr! Our landrover stuck in the snow in the middle of nowhere.
A final soak in the Blue Lagoon. Bjork bathes here.
Early map of arctic lands (George Phillip, late 1800's).